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Lobster Kadobster

Lobster Kadobster was a dish invented at T. Pittari's, a restaurant on South Claiborne Avenue famous for serving exotic game meats. Pittari's was one of the first, if not the first, restaurants in town to feature a live lobster tank from which diners could pick their own lobster. Lobster Kadobster took steamed lobster orders of magnitude further, with lobster, shrimp and crabmeat combined into a seasoned stuffing all served in the lobster shell.

But it's strange to think that at one time lobster was not considered anything special, and nowhere near the delicacy it is today.

Lobsters were once so abundant along the coastlines of North America that they were considered a lowly food source. Native American tribes, such as the Wabanaki, Passamaquoddy, and Mi'kmaq, consumed lobsters as a part of their diet long before the arrival of Europeans.

During the colonial period in America, lobsters were incredibly plentiful, easily harvested, and were thus commonly eaten by the poor, servants, and even prisoners. They were so abundant that they were often referred to as the "cockroach of the sea."

As transportation and preservation methods improved, lobster began to be shipped farther inland, making it available to a wider audience. However, its reputation as a food for the lower classes persisted well into the 19th century.

With the advent of the railroad in the 19th century, fresh lobster could be transported inland more efficiently. Entrepreneurs and chefs began marketing lobster as a luxury item, especially to urban populations. This marketing effort helped change the perception of lobster from a food of the poor to a gourmet delicacy.

In coastal regions such as New England, where lobsters were abundant, tourism became a significant industry. Lobster dinners became a popular attraction for tourists, further cementing the crustacean's status as a sought-after dish.

Lobster's rise in culinary prestige was also fueled by its versatility in haute cuisine. Chefs experimented with various recipes, incorporating lobster into dishes such as bisques, salads, and pastas, further enhancing its desirability among diners.

Lobster became not only a symbol of culinary indulgence but also a cultural icon associated with luxury and celebration. It became a staple item on menus of upscale restaurants and was often served at special occasions such as weddings and holidays.

Here's a recipe for Lobster Kadobster, as published in the local newspaper years ago, with the caveat that the seafood should not be cooked nor the lobster broiled as long as directed.

Maine Lobster à la Pittari

2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup finely chopped green onions
½ cup finely chopped celery
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ cup chopped cooked shrimp
½ cup fresh lump crabmeat (back fin)
¼ cup finely chopped parsley
2 cups bread crumbs
Salt and pepper

2 2½-pound lobsters, split in half lengthwise

Paprika

Melted butter

Pour olive oil into skillet and heat. Add green onions, celery and garlic. Marinate until soft, not brown. Add chopped shrimp, let simmer until cooked, stirring gently to keep from sticking. Add lump crabmeat and stir gently. Add salt and pepper to taste. Let simmer about 20 minutes. Stir in parsley and bread crumbs.

Parboil lobsters 2 minutes to the pound. Clean cavity in the head, fill with dressing, and sprinkle lightly with paprika. Brush the entire lobster with melted butter. Place in broiler for about 20 minutes.

Makes 4 servings

T. Pittari's: Italian, 4200 S Claiborne Ave, New Orleans (Carrollton/Broadmoor) - 891-2801 (do not call) map

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