Category: Gone, But Not Forgotten

Behind the strangely-out-of-place-courthouse-that-turned-into-the-Wildlife & Fisheries headquarters (and back again), sat the The Tally-Ho Restaurant, at 400 Chartres, corner Conti. The restaurant, cafe, coffee shop-- whatever you wanted to call it-- was originally run by Bertrand "Bert" Levy and his wife, Tillie. The place was famous for three things: the cheese omelettes, Bert and Tillie's bickering, and the inconsistent hours of operation.

Outside, over the corner entrance, hung one of those old, two-sided, red and white Coca-Cola signs, the kind the distributor probably gave away in exchange for selling Coke products, and which had the name of the establishment added to the blank white bottom half. The Tally-Ho's sign appears to have been there since the building housed the Continental Restaurant back in the 1950s, just with the name repainted.

Primarily a breakfast and lunch operation, the Tally-Ho was for some time also a late night breakfast place. It is as this I remember it, and doubt I ever saw the inside of it during the light of day. For this reason I may have missed having an omelette made by Bert himself, and I certainly don't recall witnessing any of the notorious bickering.

Back in the 1970s, one could park across the tracks from Decatur Street and the French Quarter, in the shell lot by the river, with relatively little fear of late night criminal activity. For those unfamiliar, small bi-valve shells dredged from Lake Pontchartrain are commonly used here in lieu of gravel.

Parking in the shell lot was free, and it only meant hoofing a couple of extra blocks into the Quarter to patronize iconic Pat O'Brien's on a weekend night, or Melius Bar on Conti, a popular destination for the college crowd on Wednesdays in those days.

After a night of French Quarter partying (read over-indulging), ambling back to your car in the shell lot took you right past the Tally-Ho, where you could cheaply get a plate full of eggs, ham or bacon, toast and coffee. And a bit of respite before venturing home.

On January 31, 1977 a mid-afternoon fire-- a grease flare-up from the griddle was to blame-- caused the restaurant heavy damage, but the brigade from the fire house in the next block over on Decatur was able to respond and extinguish it in about 15 minutes.

At some point, Bert and Tillie left the business, and the Tally-Ho was taken over by a Wisconsin couple named Chuck and Lorraine Nahmens, apparently around 1982.

In 1986, the restaurant took a wild left turn and began serving Hungarian food. A woman named Elizabeth White from Virginia, and a native of Hungary, applied for a waitressing job at the Tally-Ho. Her tenure would be short-- only three weeks-- as she was just passing through (on foot!) on her way to Mexico, a religious pilgrimage of some sort.

But while she was here, White convinced the Nahmenses to try serving some of the Hungarian dishes she cooked for them. The idea was apparently a hit with the clientele, and when she left to continue her journey, she left printed recipes and instructions behind.

According to his obituary, original owner Bert Levy died November 3, 2000, at age 75, in Austin, TX. Services and interment, however, were here in Metairie.

Information is sparse, but an old Chowhound website post seems to indicate the Tally-Ho closed for good in the early-2000s. Since then the building's facade has been restored to that of the original Perrilliat House, built in 1825. The corner entrance and old Coca-Cola sign are no more.

Tally Ho Coffee Shop: Diner, 400 Chartres, New Orleans (French Quarter) - 566-7071 (do not call) map

A Lakeview neighborhood institution for decades, Charlie's Deli, as it was more commonly called, served up real, New York deli-style fare made right in front of you. Or at least what you could see through the deli cases that separated the dining area from the galley kitchen. An outlier in a town full of po-boy shops, Charlie's was the destination for fans of real pastrami and corned beef piled high on good Jewish rye.

If you were lucky, you could get one of the few, coveted parking spots right in front, otherwise you parked on the street. As you entered, on the left, at the front end of a line of glass-fronted cooler cases holding the meats, cheeses, salads, etc, was a short few feet of counter space where you placed your order, paid, and picked up your food when ready.

Behind the counter, high on the wall, was a chalkboard style menu listing, in addition to regular offerings like pastrami, turkey and Reuben sandwiches, specialties such as the "Wolfie" or the "Moon". Both were overstuffed combinations of meats and cheese, the latter named for former New Orleans mayor Moon Landrieu.

Dining in typically meant having to stand near the front waiting for a table to open up during busy times, and hoping your order wouldn't be ready before one did. Once a table was secured, it usually needed a wipe-down of whatever stickiness the previous occupant left behind. Handwritten signage warned diners to clean their own tables lest they incur the "wrath of Sharon", but those who didn't were apparently out the door before it could be invoked, leaving the clean-up to those who came after.

The typical sandwich construction went something along these lines: A generous portion of meat (or meats) for a sandwich, thinly sliced, of course, was piled high on a paper plate and topped with sliced Swiss cheese. This amalgamation would then be placed in a drawer-style steamer to gently heat the meat and melt the cheese. A few pumps of the handle on the front and, voila! This would all then be transferred to authentic deli rye bread slices for further amendment with Russian dressing, slaw, sauerkraut or the like.

Charlie's rounded out its "New York-ness" with shelving and racks along the wall opposite the counter filled with Kosher grocery items like matzos and gefilte fish, mostly Manischewitz brand, and none of which I ever saw anyone purchase during any of the probably one hundred times I ate there.

The "Charlie" of Charlie's Deli was Charlie Young, noted for being the originator of New York style delicatessens in New Orleans. The Lakeview outlet was the second of two Young owned before selling the Harrison Avenue location and opening another in Metairie.

Charlie had also been a trumpet player in several area dance orchestras, and was for many years the bugler at the Fairgrounds race course.

In the summer of 1986, then 62 year-old Young was working the night shift at a Metairie Time Saver convenience store. A teen-aged armed robber, under the influence of LSD, alcohol and other drugs, shot and killed him, taking a paltry $11, the money used to buy fishing bait. The jury deliberated for just 35 minutes before convicting him of first-degree murder.

After Charlie's Deli became a casualty of Hurricane Katrina, it was succeeded in the spot by Touche Café, Dan’s Place, then an iteration of Koz's, and currently by Francesca by Katie's. The latter pays homage to Charlie's in the form of the Moon sandwich.

Charlie's Deli: Sandwiches/Deli, 515 Harrison Ave, New Orleans (Lakeview) - 486-1766 (do not call) map

Francesca's by Katie's: Sandwiches/Deli/Pizza, 515 Harrison Ave, New Orleans (Lakeview) - (504)266-2511 map

Artista Pizza Kitchen was started in 1958 by a telephone lineman named Walter who wanted to go into business for himself. With the help of United Bakery on St. Bernard Ave. in creating a dough recipe, he rented a small space in the front corner of a movie theater building on Franklin Avenue, and began what would spawn three more restaurants, four if you count the one a former employee opened down in St. Bernard Parish. In six months time, the pizzeria was profitable enough for Walter to make it his full-time vocation.

The small dining area held no more than probably ten tables, maybe one more if not for the jukebox against the rear wall. The kitchen was visible through a large plate glass window, so diners could watch their pizzas being made.

The pizza was of the hand-thrown, thin crust style, and offered in two sizes, 12" (six slices) and 16" (8 slices). Toppings were the standard fare: cheese, mushrooms, onion, bell pepper, black or green olives, sausage, ground beef, pepperoni and Canadian bacon.

Besides pizza, two salads were available: an Italian tossed (iceberg lettuce, tomato, pepperoncini) and a lettuce with artichoke hearts, both dressed exclusively with a house-made, garlicky vinaigrette.

Fountain soft drinks and draught beer (by the glass or by the pitcher) completed the menu.

In 1965, the operation was expanded and Tower of Pizza was opened on Downman Road in eastern New Orleans, followed in 1971 by Dino's on Veterans Boulevard in Metairie. After a fourth iteration was opened on Williams Blvd. in Kenner, it was suggested the three expansion outlets all be rebranded under the Tower of Pizza moniker, ostensibly to save money on advertising and pizza box printing.

A cousin bought Artista from Walter in 1973, and operated it until 1986, after the closure of the movie theater and the decline of the neighborhood in general made it no longer profitable.

Today, only the former Dino's in Metairie remains as Tower of Pizza, still operated by Walter's son, Walter, Jr. It retains the same 1970s decor it's always had: dark wood paneling and red & white checkered table cloths. And not one but two large windows through which to view the pizza making. And the original Artista menu. If it ain't broke...

Artista Pizza Kitchen: Pizza, 2941 Franklin Ave, New Orleans (Gentilly) - 947-9385 (do not call) map

Tower of Pizza: Pizza, 2104 Veterans Blvd, Metairie (Metairie Below Causeway) map - (504)833-9373

Bozo's was a long-standing seafood restaurant originally established in 1928 by Bozo Vodanovich on St. Ann near Broad Street. Subsequently owned and operated by his children, Chris "Bozo" Vodanovich and his sister Mary Ann, it was a favorite among locals and visitors alike for many years. Bozo's moved to suburban Metairie in 1979.

Bozo's was famous for its seafood dishes, especially its boiled and fried seafood platters, featuring shrimp, oysters, crawfish, and other local delicacies. They also offered po' boys, gumbo, and other Cajun and Creole-inspired dishes.

Early in its history, Bozo's operated as a "social club", a "membership" card being required to be served. The restaurant was popular with families and groups of friends, as well as with couples looking for a cozy and romantic dining experience.

Bozo's has been recognized by a number of publications and organizations over the years, including being named as one of the "Top 10 Seafood Restaurants in the US" by Coastal Living magazine. The restaurant has also been featured on numerous TV shows and in travel guides.

Mary Ann passed away in 2002 at the age of 70. Chris "Bozo" Vodanovich died in 2014 at age 86.

Today, the Bozo's location in Metairie is occupied by Mr. Ed's Oyster Bar & Fish House, and carries on the Bozo's tradition as a must-visit destination for anyone looking to experience the unique flavors and ambiance of New Orleans-style seafood dining.

Bozo's: Seafood, 3117 21st Street, Metairie (Metairie Below Causeway) map - 831-8666 (do not call)

Mr. Ed's Oyster Bar & Fish House: Seafood, 3117 21st Street, Metairie (Metairie Below Causeway) map - 833-6310