Domenica
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EatinAintCheatin
- Senior Member
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Re: Domenica
I haven't been but received this email yesterday:
John Besh's Domenica opens today
Before the opening of Domenica, chef-partner Alon Shaya spent time in Italy learning traditional techniques. His staff also went to Italy to soak up the culture and cuisine.
After much anticipation –– and a few delays –– Domenica, John Besh’s latest restaurant, opened today, Wednesday, Sept. 2, at the Roosevelt Hotel.
Domenica is the latest venture of the Besh Restaurant Group, which chef John Besh has built with an emphasis on local produce, seafood, meats and artisan-crafted products. According to a company spokesperson, at Domenica, traditional country Italian fare will be created from local Louisiana ingredients, as well as Italian artisan oils, cheese, flours and vinegars.
The restaurant represents the fulfillment of chef-partner Alon Shaya’s long-held dream. Born in Israel, he has always been drawn to the food from “just across the Mediterranean from my homeland” –– and now that he’s an accomplished chef, this love has evolved into a total immersion in Italian traditions and food culture.
In preparation, Shaya threw himself into the intensive study of Italian –– language, culture, heritage and of course cooking. As a critical step in his Italian education, Shaya became certified by the prestigious Meat Science Department at Iowa State University, learning the scientific fundamentals of producing the pork delicacies –– salami, Parma ham and prosciutto –– that are so central to Italian cuisine, as well as the particulars of intensive butchery. From there, he journeyed to the source: Italy.
Shaya based himself northeast of Milan, traveling as much as he could to such places as Venice, Tuscany and Chianti and tasting, watching and learning. Here, instead of book-learning and classes, Shaya absorbed the culture by living it with the artisans who carry out an ancient heritage of traditional food preparation. He favored the small Italian towns and countryside establishments where proud craftsmen have created their products and, in turn, their dishes under the same azure skies; in the shade of the same ancient cedars; using the same ingredients, techniques and equipment handed down through the generations.
“These were not Michelin starred restaurants,” explains Shaya, “but what I came to understand was authentic Italian culture. Did you know, for instance, that Anolini in brodo –– the tiny braised meat-filled ravioli served in a rich broth –– are not called ‘anolini’ because they’re ring-shaped: They’re actually half-moons. But ‘anolini’ means ‘little rings.’ So why? Because they are supposed to be small enough to fit through a wedding ring. That’s the kind of grandmotherly lore that enriches everything I am trying to do.”
He lived first outside of Bergamo working in a small ristorante and then moved to Vedole, a picturesque village outside Parma, with a family who had been in artisan salami production for more than two centuries; he also worked in their small à la carte restaurant in the afternoons, creating pastas and desserts.
Then, for variety, he set off to Busseto, another small town north of Parma where he lived with another salami-making dynasty, reinforcing all his training and teaching him anew. They took him in like a family member, giving him simple lodgings upstairs from the shop while he worked in their salumificio. “It was an amazing time, like I’d been dropped into their family and was a grandson learning their trade,” he remembers. “It was natural for both sides. I was learning their language, their food, their wines; they were the most enthusiastic teachers.” The family’s 83-year-old grandmother taught Shaya about making everything from pasta to nocino, or walnut liqueur –– a process that started with harvesting the walnuts.
Working in these tiny, family-run operations, Shaya has been privy to the most top-secret traditional recipes and techniques. Performing even the most menial tasks as a full-time line cook ––“Truthfully,” he reveals, “there is no hierarchy in these kitchens” –– he’s had the opportunity to perfect his methods, which he will transfer to his Domenica kitchen, applying them to the freshest local Louisiana ingredients together with the finest Italian imports.
In the months before the restaurant opened, Shaya and Besh also took the opportunity to send a team of equally passionate people –– Shaya’s staff –– to Italy to soak up the culture and the cuisine while renovations were under way. Sous chefs Todd Pulsinelli and Giuseppe Caratozzolo traveled over with General Manager Kerry Kelley on the initial “study abroad” program, which Shaya saw as an important aspect of ongoing training.
“Our cooks will all be challenged to study the history and traditions of Italian food,” he explains. “We will be making regular trips there to inspire us and to continue our education.”
(Continued in next post)
John Besh's Domenica opens today
Before the opening of Domenica, chef-partner Alon Shaya spent time in Italy learning traditional techniques. His staff also went to Italy to soak up the culture and cuisine.
After much anticipation –– and a few delays –– Domenica, John Besh’s latest restaurant, opened today, Wednesday, Sept. 2, at the Roosevelt Hotel.
Domenica is the latest venture of the Besh Restaurant Group, which chef John Besh has built with an emphasis on local produce, seafood, meats and artisan-crafted products. According to a company spokesperson, at Domenica, traditional country Italian fare will be created from local Louisiana ingredients, as well as Italian artisan oils, cheese, flours and vinegars.
The restaurant represents the fulfillment of chef-partner Alon Shaya’s long-held dream. Born in Israel, he has always been drawn to the food from “just across the Mediterranean from my homeland” –– and now that he’s an accomplished chef, this love has evolved into a total immersion in Italian traditions and food culture.
In preparation, Shaya threw himself into the intensive study of Italian –– language, culture, heritage and of course cooking. As a critical step in his Italian education, Shaya became certified by the prestigious Meat Science Department at Iowa State University, learning the scientific fundamentals of producing the pork delicacies –– salami, Parma ham and prosciutto –– that are so central to Italian cuisine, as well as the particulars of intensive butchery. From there, he journeyed to the source: Italy.
Shaya based himself northeast of Milan, traveling as much as he could to such places as Venice, Tuscany and Chianti and tasting, watching and learning. Here, instead of book-learning and classes, Shaya absorbed the culture by living it with the artisans who carry out an ancient heritage of traditional food preparation. He favored the small Italian towns and countryside establishments where proud craftsmen have created their products and, in turn, their dishes under the same azure skies; in the shade of the same ancient cedars; using the same ingredients, techniques and equipment handed down through the generations.
“These were not Michelin starred restaurants,” explains Shaya, “but what I came to understand was authentic Italian culture. Did you know, for instance, that Anolini in brodo –– the tiny braised meat-filled ravioli served in a rich broth –– are not called ‘anolini’ because they’re ring-shaped: They’re actually half-moons. But ‘anolini’ means ‘little rings.’ So why? Because they are supposed to be small enough to fit through a wedding ring. That’s the kind of grandmotherly lore that enriches everything I am trying to do.”
He lived first outside of Bergamo working in a small ristorante and then moved to Vedole, a picturesque village outside Parma, with a family who had been in artisan salami production for more than two centuries; he also worked in their small à la carte restaurant in the afternoons, creating pastas and desserts.
Then, for variety, he set off to Busseto, another small town north of Parma where he lived with another salami-making dynasty, reinforcing all his training and teaching him anew. They took him in like a family member, giving him simple lodgings upstairs from the shop while he worked in their salumificio. “It was an amazing time, like I’d been dropped into their family and was a grandson learning their trade,” he remembers. “It was natural for both sides. I was learning their language, their food, their wines; they were the most enthusiastic teachers.” The family’s 83-year-old grandmother taught Shaya about making everything from pasta to nocino, or walnut liqueur –– a process that started with harvesting the walnuts.
Working in these tiny, family-run operations, Shaya has been privy to the most top-secret traditional recipes and techniques. Performing even the most menial tasks as a full-time line cook ––“Truthfully,” he reveals, “there is no hierarchy in these kitchens” –– he’s had the opportunity to perfect his methods, which he will transfer to his Domenica kitchen, applying them to the freshest local Louisiana ingredients together with the finest Italian imports.
In the months before the restaurant opened, Shaya and Besh also took the opportunity to send a team of equally passionate people –– Shaya’s staff –– to Italy to soak up the culture and the cuisine while renovations were under way. Sous chefs Todd Pulsinelli and Giuseppe Caratozzolo traveled over with General Manager Kerry Kelley on the initial “study abroad” program, which Shaya saw as an important aspect of ongoing training.
“Our cooks will all be challenged to study the history and traditions of Italian food,” he explains. “We will be making regular trips there to inspire us and to continue our education.”
(Continued in next post)
Health nuts are going to feel stupid someday, lying in hospitals dying of nothing.
- Redd Foxx
- Redd Foxx
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EatinAintCheatin
- Senior Member
- Posts: 429
- Joined: Fri Jul 11, 2008 5:56 pm
Re: Domenica
(Continued from previous post)
The chef and his staff are not all that have been preparing for Domenica’s opening: There’s also a small stockpile of 2,500 pounds of salumi slowly curing, and prosciuttos and hams that have been aging for close to 12 months at the Besh Restaurant Group’s shared smokehouse at La Provence in Lacombe.
Shaya packed them away before his initial Italian adventure and is now refining his menu and preparing additional cured meats, hand-crafted Italian-style cheeses, liqueurs and other time-intensive traditional Italian ingredients that cannot be hurried but are integral to the authentic country Italian fare he learned “living over the store.”
To accompany all this authentic cuisine, Domenica will offer custom-made beers and a wine list focusing on various regions of Italy. And the nocino and limoncello? They started with walnuts and local Meyer lemons, just as Shaya’s Italian “grandmother mentor” taught him.
Besh’s next restaurant, American Sector, is schedule to open at the World War II Museum later this year.
The chef and his staff are not all that have been preparing for Domenica’s opening: There’s also a small stockpile of 2,500 pounds of salumi slowly curing, and prosciuttos and hams that have been aging for close to 12 months at the Besh Restaurant Group’s shared smokehouse at La Provence in Lacombe.
Shaya packed them away before his initial Italian adventure and is now refining his menu and preparing additional cured meats, hand-crafted Italian-style cheeses, liqueurs and other time-intensive traditional Italian ingredients that cannot be hurried but are integral to the authentic country Italian fare he learned “living over the store.”
To accompany all this authentic cuisine, Domenica will offer custom-made beers and a wine list focusing on various regions of Italy. And the nocino and limoncello? They started with walnuts and local Meyer lemons, just as Shaya’s Italian “grandmother mentor” taught him.
Besh’s next restaurant, American Sector, is schedule to open at the World War II Museum later this year.
Health nuts are going to feel stupid someday, lying in hospitals dying of nothing.
- Redd Foxx
- Redd Foxx
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bam bam
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- Location: somewhere extremely happy
Re: Domenica
Am I going there for a meal or an anthropology lesson?
Re: Domenica
Nothing will benefit human health and increase chances for survival of life on Earth as much as the evolution to a vegetarian diet.—Albert Einstein
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Isabella Maja
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Re: Domenica
Thanks Suzy!
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edible complex
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Re: Domenica
AMORE the goat cheese stuffed squash blossoms. finally, someone in town is offering these lovelies, and next time I'm not sharing. the grilled radicchio is radiculous. it's usually served in Italy w/gorgonzola, but they serve it w/an aged riccota, which is equally good and melts in your mouth.
the tagliatelle w/rabbit ragu and porcinis is divine. my friend ordered a pizza before I got there, think it was the caprese. next time, I'm in for the gorgonzola, pear and walnut pizza, and I'll be getting the soppressata and the stracci w/oxtail ragu and fried chicken livers...all of which came highly recommended from a friend who dines there often. great wine selection, excellent service, very affordable, the space is beautiful, and the food takes me to Italy (w/o that bear of a flight).
the tagliatelle w/rabbit ragu and porcinis is divine. my friend ordered a pizza before I got there, think it was the caprese. next time, I'm in for the gorgonzola, pear and walnut pizza, and I'll be getting the soppressata and the stracci w/oxtail ragu and fried chicken livers...all of which came highly recommended from a friend who dines there often. great wine selection, excellent service, very affordable, the space is beautiful, and the food takes me to Italy (w/o that bear of a flight).
After Mon & Tues, even the calendar says W-T-F!
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Isabella Maja
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- Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2008 11:48 pm
Re: Domenica
Sounds lovely! Thanks so much for the report!edible complex wrote:AMORE the goat cheese stuffed squash blossoms. finally, someone in town is offering these lovelies, and next time I'm not sharing. the grilled radicchio is radiculous. it's usually served in Italy w/gorgonzola, but they serve it w/an aged riccota, which is equally good and melts in your mouth.
the tagliatelle w/rabbit ragu and porcinis is divine. my friend ordered a pizza before I got there, think it was the caprese. next time, I'm in for the gorgonzola, pear and walnut pizza, and I'll be getting the soppressata and the stracci w/oxtail ragu and fried chicken livers...all of which came highly recommended from a friend who dines there often. great wine selection, excellent service, very affordable, the space is beautiful, and the food takes me to Italy (w/o that bear of a flight).
I might go there for an anniversary meal!
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edible complex
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Re: Domenica
did u go yet?Isabella Maja wrote:Sounds lovely! Thanks so much for the report!
I might go there for an anniversary meal!
Happy A...Cheers!
After Mon & Tues, even the calendar says W-T-F!
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Isabella Maja
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- Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2008 11:48 pm
Re: Domenica
Afraid not. Major schedule snags.edible complex wrote:did u go yet?
Happy A...Cheers!
I want to go when I can have time to enjoy & lollygag the next day too.
Looking forward to it tho!
BTW, I am of the mind to celebrate each birthday & anniversary at least several different times if not more. So we still have plenty of time left!
Thanks for your good wishes!