Dining in Spain and France

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willifred
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Dining in Spain and France

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I got to France a few days ago. Have been in Biarritz in Southern part for a couple of days. Also up in small villages in the Pyranese. Made it to Pamplona for the Fiesta de San Fermin (running of the bulls) on Sunday just in time for the bullfights, then to see the Spanish win the world cup. An amazing place to be on that day. Super Bowl can't even begin to compare.... Have been dining incredibly well. I've just come in from dinner and had way too much champagne (Lormandier Brunier). My wife turned 50 today and we had a real blow out of a time I'll report on the restaurants when I can think straight....
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Gourmondo
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Re: Dining in Spain and France

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willifred wrote:I got to France a few days ago. Have been in Biarritz in Southern part for a couple of days. Also up in small villages in the Pyranese. Made it to Pamplona for the Fiesta de San Fermin (running of the bulls) on Sunday just in time for the bullfights, then to see the Spanish win the world cup. An amazing place to be on that day. Super Bowl can't even begin to compare.... Have been dining incredibly well. I've just come in from dinner and had way too much champagne (Lormandier Brunier). My wife turned 50 today and we had a real blow out of a time I'll report on the restaurants when I can think straight....
Ooh la la - you are one lucky person. Our family stayed in a house near the beach with some German friends for a week about 20K north of Biarritz about ten years ago. Watched the Tour de France go by while having lunch one day. Went to the market for food everyday. Spent a couple of days combing through the Bordeaux vineyards and mangling the French language, but the locals were all good with it. Another fabulous food region of France we've been privileged to visit - out of your area, Loire, Paris, Alsace, the Jura and Burgundy, the latter is still my fave, but after numerous trips all over that country over the past thirty-five years, I have yet to find an area I haven't fully enjoyed gastronomically. Details please when time permits. Many happy returns for your wife and bon appetit!
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willifred
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Re: Dining in Spain and France

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Just catching my breath after Fiesta in Pamplona. Haven't had time to post about meals , but I had a great moment in the city market in Biarritz just before I left. They have a stand up oyster bar (as well as much more seafood). I had 2 doz at 10AM with a couple of glasses of wine, seems to be a popular thing to do on the weekend. When the guy shucking found out I was from New Orleans, he yelled F*** BP......He explained where I was from to the crowd, and the entire place started the chant. It worked its way down until it covered the entire market. Went on for a long time.... Can't buy stuff like that!
Oysters from Cap Ferret were the best, but had them from 6 different places. All fantastic. Flat, smooth ones were very sweet... deep ruff shelled ones were briney.
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willifred
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Re: Dining in Spain and France

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I have been waiting to start my posts on restaurants we have done in northern Spain. But today is going to be the exception. We went to the Village of Getaria just below San Sebastian, a little fishing village. I had read about Elkano for years, and had always been distracted by other things. Today was easily the best fish /seafood meal of my life. It will not sound like much, I suppose, because of the simplicity of it.
We started with Bite sized qubes of tuna that were marinated, but not like ceviche in citrus. More of a neutral thing so as not to cover the quality of the fish. Out of this world texture and taste, like no other tuna I've had. Of course, the champagne we were having with it did everything to promote my opinion. Next were fresh white anchovies. Simply pan sauted in olive oil. There are only 2 month out of the year they are available. We got lucky. I know some of you are saying anchovies????? But you probably have never had fresh ones like this. Split them open, take out the backbone, and slurp up the oil with bread....
We had moved on to a Galiatian albarino that was very rich and full bodied. The owners son was taking care of us and had intentions of making this our best experience possible.
Next came Red Mullet, a small fish with a million bones, but the flavor was unlike any I've had before. Sweet flesh and crisp skin. Previously, the best I had had was in Paris, but the bar has been raised.
Then came hake in green sauce. A beautiful super white piece of fish with the "cheeks" surrounding it. The cheeks were very gelatinous, might not be to some peoples taste, but I thought it was wonderful.
Next came a halibut, splayed wide open and simply grilled. Pure ocean flavor, (as were they all). The skin was the interesting part for me. The dark skin was much more flavorful than the light. Both were crispy and crunchy.
By this time, I am crying uncle, as the owners son had intentions of more rounds of seafood. We settled for a creme broule and a "pan perdu" of sorts with house made ice cream. I wasn't able to identify what the flavor was, but by now, I just wanted out. Cafe con leche after that, and finally some truffles and little tiny "cakes".
As I walked away looking at the sea, I realized this was just an average Monday for the majority of the people in Elkano that day, but as I said earlier, the best fish meal of my life.
There is a good bit of info if you google Elkano.....if you are interested
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