Can We Finally Discuss How Piss Poor The State of Food Criticism in New Orleans is?

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bam bam
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Can We Finally Discuss How Piss Poor The State of Food Criticism in New Orleans is?

Post by bam bam »

Now that it is just us kids and the food writing community as yet to discover this little gem of a forum, we need to address the horrendous state of food criticism in the best eating city in the world.

Since the storm, the Dean has pretty much become a complete sell out. His reviews are beyond worthless as he has gone beyond blurring the line between his commercial interests and serious food criticism. With such a big name food writer so ethically challenged, does it not trickle down? Is it really that hard for the guy at The Gambit to not write a positive review of a place that paid for a half page ad in the same issue?

I am really not sure what the deal with Brett is anymore. He promised us a return to food criticism almost a year ago but we are left with nothing but glowing profiles of Leah Chase.

While somewhat of a breath of fresh air, Lorin is way too positive at times. After my disastarous meal at Ralph's, she was way too quick to defend a restaurant that while it has had its moments is definitely on a steep downward spiral.

We have been promised more times than not by the Dean, Lorin and Brett a return to actual critiques of local dining establishments, only to be left reading glowing praises of Antoines, a feature on the Crescent City Farmer's Market and a take on Louisiana tapas. Where is the hard hitting take on the terrible service at Luke? The old board is littered with reports but yet you wouldn't know it from our food writing community.

Furthermore, I believe the overall dining experience suffers as a result. Restaurants know they won't be reviewed warts and all. Most, if not all, of the reporting will be glowing. Is there any incentive to put out a great experience other than for the sake of doing so? While I don't doubt that John Besh cares deeply about August, I really think Luke is all about putting fannies in the seats at lunch, with little regard for the food and service.

Additionally, these folks do not even attempt to be anonymous. Ian is the only food writer in town, I do not know by sight. How likely is it that when they walk into a restaurant, they are eating the same exact meal we are.

I know for a fact that Fatzmorris hasn't paid for a meal at Antoine's in at least ten years. How does that help us, the dining public?
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Re: Can We Finally Discuss How Piss Poor The State of Food Criticism in New Orleans i

Post by justagirl »

Fatz doesn't pay or tip...at least according to my friends who have had the pleasure of waitting on him...and I use pleasure loosely.

I pretty much agree with you. I really like Lorin though. I know she is positive a lot, but she does tell it like it is a lot too.

I highly doubt people in the biz don't know who these people are when they walk in. They are not getting the same service and food as the rest of us the majority of the time. That's too bad...because we give some damn good reviews too.
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Re: Can We Finally Discuss How Piss Poor The State of Food Criticism in New Orleans i

Post by bam bam »

I didn't know that. I got my info from a waiter at Antoine's whom I play poker with. It was also confirmed for me by another source.

I really do think we as group pick up on food and service issues much faster and are much more upfront about them than the food writers. I think there are two principal motivations. The first is the obvious, commercial considerations can take precedence. You have to sell advertising for people to read what you write. It is a delicate balancing act. But clearly Fatzo went over the line.

The second is the human desire to be liked. It is no accident that when food critics are portrayed in movies and literature, they are nothing more than unsavory misanthropes. To do the job well, you almost have to want to be hated. And most people aren't like that.
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Re: Can We Finally Discuss How Piss Poor The State of Food Criticism in New Orleans i

Post by justagirl »

I completely agree with your assessments. Even I don't like to post negative reviews. I like everything to be glowing.

I have a couple friends from Smith and Wolenski's (sp?) and I used to be there all the time. Fitz never paid for a meal there and never tipped. And that came straight from the guy who waited on him several times and has no reason to lie or embellish a story to me.
“I'm sure when Peyton Manning was growing up he always wanted to throw the TD pass that gave the Saints a Super Bowl win," Jorge Arangure wrote. "Now he has."
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Re: Can We Finally Discuss How Piss Poor The State of Food Criticism in New Orleans i

Post by Suzy Wong »

Do you really follow reviews, or what food critics say THAT closely? I would never let that be the end all deciding if I went somewhere or not, taste is so subjective, (example) I don't like Stein's or Mr B's and a lot of people love those places. Like I said, I enjoy reading (unpretentious, non self centered) restaurant reviews of posters, but no one poster affects where I go.

Also, don't you think "4 beans" or not, a restaurant with bad service, or food, will eventually fail or not be successful, if those areas consistently lack?

I miss Gene Bourg...
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Re: Can We Finally Discuss How Piss Poor The State of Food Criticism in New Orleans i

Post by justagirl »

Suzy, I think you've read enough of what Bam and I have posted for years to know that critic's reviews are not the end all and be all of the restaurant scene. We both (along with a lot of others including Yvette, Jeeves, ect) go to resturants an aweful lot. It would just be nice to have an honest reviewer, one with out their hands in their wallet or always having to give a good review.

I mean, you can't tell me that if your review is published in a magazine, and the magazine is running a half page ad for the restaurant that month, that your review is going to be even close to negative. That's not allowed to happen.

And as for Fitz, I know he gets around and that's great, but I don't agree with a lot of what he's said. And if I listened to him, I wouldn't have tried the places he bad mouths...but I did and made my own oppinions.

I'm guilty of it too..if something was just mediocre or pedestrian, I don't bother saying anything about it. I'll try to be better about that.

I'm going to make my own accessment. I don't like things because I'm supposed to...that's not my style at all. But I think you know me better than that anyway ;)
“I'm sure when Peyton Manning was growing up he always wanted to throw the TD pass that gave the Saints a Super Bowl win," Jorge Arangure wrote. "Now he has."
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Re: Can We Finally Discuss How Piss Poor The State of Food Criticism in New Orleans i

Post by Suzy Wong »

Heya JAG,
I didn;t intend for what I said to infer both of you, my apologies. I meant the public in general. But then I was thinking of myself, I must be the nutcase diner, because I am no really one to try new places often, no matter what, I like the same traditional (for me) ones I go too. it's the future grandma in me:D AHAHHAH

I agree with you 100% about the ads in the magazines, newspapers, etc and there being reviews etc.
It seems there are food writers, not reviewers. (And if Brett Anderson knew how the owners of Bozo's felt about black people (and always have) I don't think he would be whisitling their tune like he did).

Anyway, I hear ya!

My parents got Menu Magazine, YEARS ago, when it was in "paper" form, Tom Fitzmorris has evolved into a very different person, that can be extremely annoying.
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Re: Can We Finally Discuss How Piss Poor The State of Food Criticism in New Orleans i

Post by PNG »

We dine out quite a lot in many different cities. I am constantly attacked for expressing my thoughts on the food served at many restaurants in New Orleans. I do not often review New Orleans' restaurants on the forums, though I do post reviews of restaurants in other cities on other forums fairly often. I remember many years ago, I used to look through the TP's reviews of restaurants to compare my thoughts to their's, but as has been said already, there are basically no relevant reviews being printed in any local media whatsoever. I actually listened to tf's show for about thirty minutes a day for a week recently. His thoughts are ludicrous. His "show" consists basically of:

Anyone who dines at chain restaurants is an idiot. Chain restaurants are horrible. Anyone who dines at a chain restaurant is an idiot.

Go to commercial...................Zea is the greatest restaurant. My wife loves them. I love them . Their menu is amazing. They have locations here, here, here, here, here....................Back to the show.

Chain restaurants are horrible. Anyone who dines at chain restaurants is an idiot......................................
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Re: Can We Finally Discuss How Piss Poor The State of Food Criticism in New Orleans i

Post by JonSmith »

Moreover, I think that by now that the restauranteurs (sp?) themselves would genuinely appreciate an objective review instead of a bunch of smoke being blown up their rear ends.
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Re: Can We Finally Discuss How Piss Poor The State of Food Criticism in New Orleans i

Post by Mac da Knife »

TF is a bought & paid-for whore, whose credibility was lost long ago.
I admire Lorin for her efforts, but she has a major task underway.
Perhaps eschewing karaoke would be a good start.
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