Promised Review of El Mesquite Grill

[ratcheese]

Sorry I'm tardy, but a professional food critic I'm not. Its a lot tougher business than it appears to be. I finally had a chance to run over to the Westbank for lunch. We couldn't do it as a group this weekend, but I had promised to give this place a try so I did it on my own today.

The name El Mesquite Grill had me looking for smoke upon arrival. Mesquite grills are typical of the Northern Frontier of Mexico and Texas. You've probably heard a lot about the beef in Argentina, but relatively few people know how good the beef of Northern Mexico can be when it is cooked over Mesquite coals. Same goes for Texas steaks; we always cooked steaks over Mesquite. I had never seen a steak broiled until I went off to the service and I still don't see all the fuss about broiled steak, regardless of the quality of meat.

Anyway, no smoke to be seen at El Mesquite. But, they did have very nice people working in an atmosphere that reminded me of an officer's club on a military base for some reason--sparse, wood paneled walls, cement floors, accoustical ceiling tiles. But ok in way. Not quiet nice, but something close to ok in a strange way.

Did I mention the people were very nice? Chips and salsa were served upon seating. They fried their own chips and the salsa was good; it was an uncooked, tomato sauce based salsa made of prepared tomato sauce, but fresh cilantro, onion, and chiiles were added and it was ok. The tostados were made of a coarse grade of yellow corn but remainded unsalted, which I liked. So far so good--I'm thinking Oklahoma Good at this point.

I ordered a small guaca-caca salad to go along with one of the big boy plates. I think it was the number 46, forget the name, but it had one beef taco, one beef enchilada, one chile relleno, rice and beans, since I was alone and trying to get the broadest sample possible. Hey, wait a minute! That was the name of the plate, The Sampler. Yes!

First impression, the taco shell was home fried at least. Positive. Served Matamoras Style with ground beef. It had a lite sprinkling of mild white cheese and some finely shredded lettuce on the side. I'm hopeful at this point.

In fact, everything looked ok but the chili relleno which had an dried-out, overcooked red paste on top of it, that was so thick it remained on the top with nothing running over the sides like a typical sauce would.

The enchilada appeared to be normal, with a vey small amount of red enchilada sauce on it. That was a good sign.

There was also nothing frightening about the appearance of the rice and beans, so as I take the first bite of the Taco, I'm thinking I might have found something passable in the Mesquite Grill.

The Taco shell had been fried in old oil. I had one bite.

The Guacamole was too salty to be edible*even if they had used fresh avocados instead of the packaged, mashed stuff they used as a base.

The aforementioned sauce on the Chilli Relleno was Italian. I swear to God. It was Italian. Oregano. I tried at least three, maybe four bites before I could no longer deny its heritage. Inedible.

I ate the entire beef enchilada.

I ate all my rice.

The beans were not canned.

The bathroom was clean.

The people were nice.

And, I witnessed another diner wolfing down giant forkloads of the Guacamole.

When I left, I was still looking for smoke rising from the Mesquite Grill.

Grade: 1 Nacho--Survivability questionable outside New Orleans or New York City.

[NoNoNanette]

Great review. It's sad to anticipate great food and then be disappointed. I enjoyed your post. :)

[Oyster]

Sad to anticipate great food, but at least when it is $10..well...WHEW!

This was a great review, and well written! You captured the very essence of your lunch experience, and I felt like I was there to share with you.

I apologize that the meal was not perfect in every way. The thought that El Mesquite might offer multiple open pits of grilled delights slow cooking over fresh mesquite actually never crossed my mind. Not in this neck of the woods.

Your descriptions of each dish were very precise, and informative. Italiano Rellenos...yeah...not good Larry...not good at all!!!

Great review. Sorry for the bum steer.

Only two questions I have now are:
1) Were people "pushing" great reviews on a local food radio broadcast about how wonderful this place was????

2) I guess you could not indulge in the Margaritas at lunch. I wonder if they knock patrons out with outstanding Margaritas, and after multiple refills, they have absolutely no clue what they are eating, hence the great reviews???

Again, I only wish it had been better, and thanks for taking a BIG ONE for the team!

[ratcheese]

Oyster, you know not to apologize for recs. We're all foodies here. We know how it goes sometimes.

The Margaritas looked good but I was driving alone so I stuck with tea. The thought did cross my mind though...

I have a few thoughts on the recommendations of food personalities and their critiques of Mexican Food in this area:

1) Writing about food on a regular basis is a tough job. Its probably very hard to constantly find new and interesting places that are a bright spot in the restaurant community.

2) Writing about a bad food experience is not fun. I wish I could say writing this review was fun. It was not, because the people were nice. It makes you feel like a jerk. I can almost promise you that a newspaper or food site or radio producer does not want to put out bad news.

3) I have yet to read or listen to a local food personality who knew what they were talking about when it comes to Mexican. Seriously. The same lack of knowledge regarding Mexican Food that I see in the dining public, is also to be seen in the local food personalities.

That brings me to the reason I began this rant in the first place, it is ignorance that allows people like the owner of the Mesquite Grill to open a restaurant as a business concern--with no love for the production of quality food--and thrive in this area filled with uneducated diners. In this Post Katirina New Orleans, we now have this type of Mexican, and the rudimentary foods of impoverished people as our newest addition to our restaurant culture here in New Orleans.

North Americans love Mexican Food. I love it because I grew up eating it and it is as natural to me as fried okra. But because of a lifetime of experience with the food, I know good from bad and it infuriates me to witness this farce being played out in my adopted culture.

So, you have food critics and many others trying to become critics, who are firing off these overly written pieces of misinformed fluff about something they know nothing about.

I promised to go down the list of recommended restaurants, and I will do so. But as I go along I'm also thinking it might be more helpful to post some educational topics about Mexico and the Border States and their regional foods.

That may be more helpful to the dining public here, now that we have such an influx of Latinos (who will prove to be a good thing for our community).

We just need to raise the level of awareness somehow.

[Oyster]

Rat, just wondering if you were in the area during Guillermo Peters Taqueros/Coyocan's run on St. Charles Ave. That's about the only "upscale" Mexican venue I can recall in this area, and was just wondering if perhaps you had dined there.

http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/127669

Oh...and have a Happy Cinco de Mayo!

[ratcheese]

Rat, just wondering if you were in the area during Guillermo Peters Taqueros/Coyocan's run on St. Charles Ave. That's about the only "upscale" Mexican venue I can recall in this area, and was just wondering if perhaps you had dined there.

http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/127669

Oh...and have a Happy Cinco de Mayo!

Happy Cinco de Mayo to you!

I missed that place. I was living out on the Miss. coast back then and I spent more time driving back and forth, than eating out, sorry to say...

Anyone interested in Mexican should check out that link, however. Look at the photo of Nachos, on the right-hand side of the screen. There is an entire slide show of nachos.

Mex Lesson #1) Those are not Nachos. An acid test for Mexican restaurants is as follows: Order drinks and an order of Nachos. If the Nachos are served as a pile of tostados, covered with anything, finish your drinks and pick around on the Nachos before leaving. The rest of the menu is bound to be based on short cuts.

Nachos are served as individual tostados, usually one dozen per plate. Plain nachos are topped with a mild cheese (white is right, there is no such thing as yellow cheese in Mexico, but Tex-Mex has adopted yellow cheese over the years, so yellow will be found and that is fine as long as it is REAL cheese and not a cheese whiz type thing). Topped by a pickled jalapeno slice. Bean and cheese nachos are what we usually ate--refritos spread or spooned on top of the tostado before the cheese was added and topped by a pickled pepper. Nachos compuestos can have a small dollop of guacamole on top. Individually prepared, with care.

Aside from pre-screening a menu for signs of authenticity, order Nachos as an indicator of overall restautrant quality.

ps Nachos are native to Northern Mexico and are largely unknown in the Southern regions.

[Isabella Maja]

Rat, just wondering if you were in the area during Guillermo Peters Taqueros/Coyocan's run on St. Charles Ave. That's about the only "upscale" Mexican venue I can recall in this area, and was just wondering if perhaps you had dined there.

http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/127669

Oh...and have a Happy Cinco de Mayo!

Guillermo & Ingrid are back at it again!

[crrush]

Aside from pre-screening a menu for signs of authenticity, order Nachos as an indicator of overall restautrant quality.

ps Nachos are native to Northern Mexico and are largely unknown in the Southern regions.

I promise I'm not angling to beat up on what you like/don't like in Mexican restaurants (we cleared that up in another thread), but I gotta blow a whistle on this one. Really? Nachos are your measure of authenticity in a Mexican restaurant? Nachos may be "native" to Northern Mexico, but this dish was most definitely created to appease north of the border tastes.

You are clearly a fan of some Northern Mexican, but more likely Tex-Mex -- I like it too. But that's just one region or variation (amalgamation, really) on Mexican cuisine. I'm trying to think of a good analogy--like saying "blackened gator bites" are a good measure of how good a Cajun restaurant is. (Sure, there's some Cajun-ishness to it, but authentic?)

Back to Mexico: What about the vast, gorgeous world of moles? What about birria from Jalisco? Nevermind the whole delicious, regional cuisine of the Yucatan. (No, this food probably does not exist in N.O., unless you're eating in the home of a native. But if you ever run across these dishes in your travels, give 'em a shot.)

Again...not trying to harp. I just have a soft spot for good, regional Mexican food. I love nachos. They're a great bar munchie, but maybe not a litmus for authenticity.

[ratcheese]

I promise I'm not angling to beat up on what you like/don't like in Mexican restaurants (we cleared that up in another thread), but I gotta blow a whistle on this one. Really? Nachos are your measure of authenticity in a Mexican restaurant? Nachos may be "native" to Northern Mexico, but this dish was most definitely created to appease north of the border tastes.

You are clearly a fan of some Northern Mexican, but more likely Tex-Mex -- I like it too. But that's just one region or variation (amalgamation, really) on Mexican cuisine. I'm trying to think of a good analogy--like saying "blackened gator bites" are a good measure of how good a Cajun restaurant is. (Sure, there's some Cajun-ishness to it, but authentic?)

Back to Mexico: What about the vast, gorgeous world of moles? What about birria from Jalisco? Nevermind the whole delicious, regional cuisine of the Yucatan. (No, this food probably does not exist in N.O., unless you're eating in the home of a native. But if you ever run across these dishes in your travels, give 'em a shot.)

Again...not trying to harp. I just have a soft spot for good, regional Mexican food. I love nachos. They're a great bar munchie, but maybe not a litmus for authenticity.

Glad you brought the Nacho issue up.

I agree with everything you said relating to the origins etc., as I said in the post, most Mexicans south of Monterrey have never heard of Nachos or if they have, they're likely to turn their noses up at the idea.

However, the great piles of tostados drizzled with cheese whiz we have come to know in the last few years, are nothing more that a massive pile of corn mealish mess. They are lazy, cheap, and ultimately profitable. That is why they exist.

Are they a staple food or dish, representative of Mexican Food as a whole? No, of course not.

But, I will stand by my position:if people are unfamiliar with authentic Mexican Foods, they should not be required to endure what I experienced yesterday at the aforementioned restaurant.

The lunch I described in my review cost $20.50. (including tip) It was much worse than I described. I was kind with my review. The people who worked there were nice, as I said.

And, I will add that I noted the menu looked Americanized when Oyster posted it; that is all I said, but what I actually knew, as probably you do also, is that the menu foretold a doubtful outcome. Cheese drizzled over Alambras? Cheese sauce here and there? Taco Salad? Burritos, burritos, burritos? I had a pretty good idea what I was in for but I was hoping. It still could have been good. Right?

In the end, style has nothing to do with quality. But piled tortilla chips covered with anything is not a matter of style. It is a matter of quality. It is a matter of labor intensity.

What do you tell people who are not familiar with good Mexican? I'm telling them they can save a lot of disappointment, heartburn, and money, by trying the Nachos first (if they are on the menu). I stand by my conviction that the time and effort put into appetizers can be a barometer of things to come.

Heaps of tortilla chips covered in food products are not a style of anything. It is cheap. Ballpark in origin, surely, and to be avoided at all costs unless you're at the Super Dome.

I enjoy the back and forth, I don't take it as harping at all. Maybe some open discussion will be a good thing.

ps, forgot the mole; look, I'm just trying to find something edible here and you want to get into mole? ha, well look, this isn't Oauhaca, I'm just looking for a decent taco for Christ's sake. (I have an old mole recipe on here somewhere. Recipe meaning, add peanut butter to the bottled paste and chicken stock) ha
.

[buzd]

Interestingly, one of the only "restaurants" that I've seen do nachos in the described manner (individual chips/beans/cheese/peppers) is Chili's. They're not particularly good, but they are that style.

Maybe that underscores the point about the authenticity of nachos - I don't know. Thought I'd throw that out there.

[Oyster]

Actually, I have never ordered Nachos in a restaurant. I don't even like the looks of them. Never will either.

Rat, your post actually has started a cross-forum rant, Mexican Food Inanity . Are you familiar with the dean of all food's forum?

[ratcheese]

Actually, I have never ordered Nachos in a restaurant. I don't even like the looks of them. Never will either.

Rat, your post actually has started a cross-forum rant, Mexican Food Inanity . Are you familiar with the dean of all food's forum?

Funny stuff with Feng over there. Someone alerted me last night, We'll have some fun with her inanity today. But, I have to admit my long-windedness on the subject has become a bit tiresome to even myself.

The varities of Mexican, and the vast number of topics related to those varities, make the subject difficult reduce to a focused point.

Don't blame you for not eating Nachos. I don't eat Ballpark Nachos, either, and that is almost all you see over here.

But there are only two apps I know of that are consistently served in this area, guacamole and nachos. And, of those two apps, Nachos is the one where the difference in quality is obvious--its visible. It doesn't require a developed taste.

The difference between real Nachos and Ballpark Nachos is impossible to miss.

Remember the guy in my review? The one happily shoveling down forkloads of processed Guacamole? The quality of Guacamole is more difficult to discern, for unseasoned diners.

My suggestion was for an acid test--some easy way for people to tell authentic quality and concern from establishments that are there to make a buck.

And, from what I see, opening a Mex joint over here, is a great profit oriented move. There will be more opening up, I promise.

---------- Post added at 09:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:27 AM ----------

Interestingly, one of the only "restaurants" that I've seen do nachos in the described manner (individual chips/beans/cheese/peppers) is Chili's. They're not particularly good, but they are that style.

Maybe that underscores the point about the authenticity of nachos - I don't know. Thought I'd throw that out there.

I can't say anything about Chili's, other than my youngest occasionally talks me into going there when we're on the Northshore. The last time we ate there, I had a cheeseburger. It was actually pretty good.

But, no, I wouldn't order Nachos or anything else there. As a chain, thery are almost certainly using packaged, pre-cooked chips, etc., not worth dealing with.

[ratcheese]

Last night, a friend made me aware that an aspiring food writer on another board was attempting to B-slap me over some of my recent comments related to Mexican Food in New Orleans. So, like a dummy, I fell for it and checked out her rant--it is entitled, "INANITY"..

So, Feng, here you go:

1) crrush recently mentioned enjoying some barbacoa down on Zarzamora St., in San Antonio, and I replied that I was familiar with the area. What I didn't tell him, was that my entire family has lived in the ranch lands, 25-35 miles south of Zarzamora since the
1800's. That is my home. Mexican Food is not ethnic food, to me.

You seem to find the idea of familiarity with foods, to be an inadequate pre-requisite in quality assessment and I have to say, that seems very odd to me as I travel around the country and see CAJUN BLACKENED SHRIMP-ON-A-STICK, CAJUN BLACKENED THIS AND THAT, and I can't bring myself to try it. Furthermore, I can't image many natives of this area falling for it, either.

In fact, although I have lived here permanately for almost 15 years, I still defer to natives in their assesements and discussions of native foods, as I think any reasonable person would.

However, I am always open to learning new things, so I was delighted and enlightened by your recent internet wanderings that made me aware of the fact that Nachos were invented in Piedras Negras by a Women's Auxilary Club. It makes me think of all the ways that knowledge might have altered my life if I had known sooner.

I was also delighted to know that fresh jalapenos are used on Nachos. I've never seen a fresh jalapeno on Nachos but I'm only 55, I might find one, yet. You seemed to take offense at my use of the term "pickled" when referring to canned jalopenos and on that point. I defer. I honestly don't know if canned peppers are pickled or simply canned. Furthermore, I don't give a ****.

2) How in God's name did I miss that band of Yellow Cheese Making Mennonites in Chiuahua? I thought I had taken all the tours.

And more yellow cheese to be found in western Mexico, you say?

Let me pass along some info to you that comes from direct life experiences--Mexicans despise the idea of yellow cheese, it is foreign to them. They don't know the difference between American and Chedder. its all yellow. Hence, my abbreviated allusion to "yellow cheese."

Tex-Mex incorporated American and sometimes even Chedder, generations ago.

What other crap did you come up with?

Oh, btw, there may be remote, isolated regions or locals in Western Mexico that use Yellow Cheese, I don't know. If its on the internet, I'm sure its true and the factoid will find life on food sites like Chowhound--photos to be exhibited next to the Ballpark Nacho slide show.

Mexican Food in New Orleans = Cajun Blackened Shrimp-on-a-Stick

How about that? You understand that?

Your Tom has awarded Cafe Granada on Carrolton the same 3 STARS as Juan's Flying Burrito.

Do you understand that? I don't believe you even understand the full implications of that bit of inanity, Feng. 3 STARS are intended to mean, "Worth driving across town for"

blah, blah, blah

[crrush]

ratcheese, I appreciate the thoughtful, level-headed response to my post, particularly your point that "maybe open discussion will be a good thing."

Your p.s. made me laugh out loud. Holy mole.

Don't let rants and cheap shots, wherever they're posted, derail you from this discussion. I, for one, am interested in your quest, even if we don't share the same opinions. Provoking discussion (even heated exchanges, if they're interesting) is a good thing. Some people just like to poke other people in the eye while they do it. Doesn't add to the discussion, though.

[ratcheese]

ratcheese, I appreciate the thoughtful, level-headed response to my post, particularly your point that "maybe open discussion will be a good thing."

Your p.s. made me laugh out loud. Holy mole.

Don't let rants and cheap shots, wherever they're posted, derail you from this discussion. I, for one, am interested in your quest, even if we don't share the same opinions. Provoking discussion (even heated exchanges, if they're interesting) is a good thing. Some people just like to poke other people in the eye while they do it. Doesn't add to the discussion, though.

You're right. There is a funny bit of back-story to that, though. But you are right, I'm finished with it. ha

[Schuarta]

.....Back to Mexico: What about the vast, gorgeous world of moles? What about birria from Jalisco? Nevermind the whole delicious, regional cuisine of the Yucatan. (No, this food probably does not exist in N.O., unless you're eating in the home of a native. But if you ever run across these dishes in your travels, give 'em a shot.)


Thought I would chime-in with my very limited knowledge of authentic Mexican food. In the 1980's, I had the opportunity to make many business trips to Mexico City, usually 1-2 weeks at a time, working with a partner born and raised there. From breakfast to dinner to bar snacks, eating with him at places he picked out, I had an array of mostly tasty (to me) foods, the likes and styles of which I have never seen or tasted in US restaurants.

[ratcheese]

Thought I would chime-in with my very limited knowledge of authentic Mexican food. In the 1980's, I had the opportunity to make many business trips to Mexico City, usually 1-2 weeks at a time, working with a partner born and raised there. From breakfast to dinner to bar snacks, eating with him at places he picked out, I had an array of mostly tasty (to me) foods, the* likes and styles of which I have never seen or tasted in US restaurants.

I made a generalized statement to the effect that Mexican Food has always been better North of the Border due to better indredients or the availibility thereof. And, that is a true GENERAL statement, or maybe that statement is outdated now that Faux Mex has spread throughout the US--it may no longer be true. I'll have to think about that.

Having said that, I have had a lot of food in Mexico City, Guadalahara, Monterrey, etc., that cannot be had in the US., due to its exceptional quality. Even in Mex havens such as San Antonio and South Texas, you can't find that unique quality. But, those were outstanding restaurants and they were rare.

Same goes for street food. though. The best tacos I've ever had were in Mexico City. (Southern Style) But again, those places were extremely rare,

[Oyster]

One of two reviews I've seen on El Mesquite in recent weeks. This one from Gambit's McNaulty.

http://bestofneworleans.com/gyrobase/Content?oid=oid%3A73745

[ratcheese]

One of two reviews I've seen on El Mesquite in recent weeks. This one from Gambit's McNaulty.

http://bestofneworleans.com/gyrobase/Content?oid=oid%3A73745

Oyster, I don't know what to say about that.

It does make me wonder about the motivation behind reviews such as this. I would not have bothered to even mention the place if I hadn't promised to visit and report back.

My opinion of local food writers and their knowledge of Mex, Tex-Mex, or any type of Mex for that matter, remains unchanged--in fact, my original opinion of their knowledge and professionalism is strengthened by this review.

I don't care if sales or marketing did tell him to do a nice write-up on the place, it hurts his credibility and it does a disservice to unsuspecting readers of the Gambit.

The writer seemed to issue some credence to the owner by mentioning he was a native of El Paso, but he followed that information up with the fact that the man worked in the chemical industry and had another restaurant in Slidell, before the Mesquite Grill. So, what does that all add up to? Sounds like--whiff!

Reading between the lines, I would guess he wrote this piece on orders.

And New Orleans remains a Food Mecca...edit...no more rants. I will not rant. I will not rant. :) the end